French Alps mountaineering holiday: Climb Dome des Ecrins

Itinerary

Itinerary for 3 day French Alps mountaineering holiday:

DAY 1: Glacier Skills

Pré de Madame Carle is the starting point for this trip and we aim to set off mid morning from here.

If you have taken the night train to Gap, your guide will meet you at the train station at 6:50 and there will be an opportunity to stop for breakfast and a shower on the way in. If you have stayed overnight somewhere else, we will come pick you up and take you to Pré de Madame Carle.

Once all the group are all together, we will sort out equipment for the 3 days and start the walk up to the Glacier Blanc.

Starting altitude: 1874m
Summit altitude: 2542m
Ascent: 668m
Average climbing time: 2 1/2 hours plus a few hours to practice skills on the glacier.

Pacing yourself and stamina are key in mountaineering, as routes often involve long days with a lot of ascent and descent. This is a relatively straightforward walk on a well-marked path which takes you to the foot of the glacier. Here you will start your glacier skills.

Safety is of primary concern for any mountaineer. The purpose of the day is to go through and practice the essential safety techniques used in alpinism with a focus on skills needed in glacier crossings.

You will learn or revise how to put crampons on and basic crampon techniques, how to move together on a rope, what distances to keep between you in different circumstances, how to use an ice axe effectively, how to stop yourself if you fall. You will also learn how to recognise dangers and look after your fellow mountaineers and yourself whilst climbing.

In June, early in the mountaineering season, glacier crevasses should be filled up or covered with snow. As the season progresses the snow melts, the crevasses open and become more obvious to see. However, the glacier is always moving and there is always a risk of falling into an unnoticed crevasse! This can be deadly so avoiding them and knowing how to save someone if they do drop in is a very important skill.

After having spent the day going through different techniques you will continue on the GR (footpath) feeling very safe and ready for anything to the Refuge du Glacier Blanc ( 2542m) where a hot dinner will be waiting for you.

Day 2 Pic du Glacier d'Arsine (3364m)

The Pic du Glacier d’Arsines (3364m) is a beautiful mixed route, mainly on snow with some scrambling. You set of from the Refuge du Glacier Blanc on the path towards tonight’s hut, the Refuge des Écrins. Then you will via off to the right into a wide couloir of snow. You will climb up for about 3.5 hours and throughout the climb you will have superb views of the Dome des Ecrins.

Starting altitude: 2542m
Summit altitude: 3364m
Ascent: 820m
Average climbing time: 3.5 hours

You will be woken up at 4H00, this early start is for safety reasons. As the day progresses the sun melts the snow and ice in the high mountains. This thawing increases the risk of rock fall and avalanches. It is also very hard work walking in soft snow where you sink in up to your thighs. It is best to be coming down while the snow is still hard and can take your weight!

So after a typical French mountain refuge breakfast which consists of bread, jam or honey with a choice of tea, coffee or hot chocolate you will see off into the dark. Having already prepared your bag the night before, you will put your head lamp on and join the path that takes you to the refuge des Écrins.

Once you reach the snowy couloir, you will rope up and start the climb up. The sun will start coming up while you in the climb and the light and colours over the mountains is an amazing sight. Towards the top of the climb you will reach the start of a ridge. Here it is time to do a bit of scrambling to reach the summit.

There are stunning views of the Écrins massif including la Meije, Pelvoux, and the Glacier Blanc and Glacier Noir. Once you've taken in these breathtaking views it's time to head down. Once down, you will then make your way to the Refuge des Écrins (3175m) which is further up the valley. You have the option to order a hot lunch or snacks here (additional cost). In the evening you will be served a well-earned hot meal (included in the package).

DAY 3: Climb Dome des Ecrins (4015m)

You can see the dramatic ridge of the Barre des Ecrins and its little sister, the Dome des Écrins(4015m), your objective for the weekend, from the refuge.

All there is between you and this majestic mountain is a glacier, some snow and ice, ...and a few hours of physical exertion! Now it’s your turn to conquer it!

Starting altitude: 3175m
Summit altitude: 4015m
Ascent: 840m
Descent: 2230m
Average climbing time: 3 - 4 hours ascent and 2 - 3 hours descent (to Refuge des Écrins) and 1.5 hours to reach Pré de Madame Carle.

After another early alpine start you will make your way down from the refuge to the glacier. Here you put your crampons on and rope up and you’re ready for the off.

You will reach the Col des Écrins at 3,300m by following the edge of Glacier Blanc. Here there are incredible views across the North Face. The sun rises behind you as you make your way across the glacier and gives a beautiful rosy effect on the Dome des Écrins.

From the Col des Écrins your guide will pick a route that goes up through the huge snow slope, weaving your way up the North East Face between seracs and around crevasses. You’ll arrive at a natural col where you will continue your path until you reach the summit of the Dome.

Here all your hard work will be deservedly rewarded with spectacular views across the vast Écrins National Park. You will then come back down the same way - although it goes by much quicker and the views and descent techniques are very different from the ones you used going up. It doesn’t feel at all like you are retracing your steps.

You will then make your way back down to Pré de Madame Carle, arriving exhausted but very happy!

You will have the option to stop and order lunch at the refuge or head down to the valley and eat there. Lunches are at your own cost.